Installing sliding glass patio door - ABA DSS

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Thank goodness this is General Chit Chat ...

Getting ready to install a sliding glass patio door. Have read a few articles about it ... sounds a bit tough but certainly do able.

Has anyone done it? I understand that the biggest trick would to to stabalize the joists above the door, any sagage in the roof over time, prevents the door from sliding easily. I do understand the bracing procedure on the instructions that I have read but ............ an article is different than someone I know who has done it and what they discovered along the way.

In other words I am searching for the "inside tips" on a job like this.

As I am doing this in a mobile, the thought occured to me to drill a small hole in the uncut struts on either side of the door and then insert either rebar or some stronger metal before inserting the header board. Might add to the internal strength. I don't know if that would be possible or not. Rebar can bend depending on length but perhaps something else would work that the articles are not suggesting as they are mostly discussing a "real home"

If anyone has any ideas, please be kind enough to post.

Thank you so much,
LadyVanita.

**spyder123** · May 20th, 2008

ok girl, slow down. you dont need rebar. that is meant for concrete work. you will need a header above your door, just make sure you pull the wires before you go and butcher a big hole in the wall first. you will also need some big strong boys to help you move that new patio door. those things are heavy.

**hunter50** · May 20th, 2008

hey lady- the easiest way is to hire someone else to do it..l0l

but it can be done depends on is a replacment or new instalitation..
just be careful that there is no main support beams or pluming or electric there and frame it out..you may need multiple skills
and be sure it is square..--just some tips..
let me know how you make out..i have done a few in the days..
good luck

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder123

ok girl, slow down. you dont need rebar. that is meant for concrete work. you will need a header above your door, just make sure you pull the wires before you go and butcher a big hole in the wall first. you will also need some big strong boys to help you move that new patio door. those things are heavy.

Spyder, I appreciate that. Not trying to sound smart or anything, I know that rebar is for concrete, but, I am pretty sure that this mobile is using 2 x 4's and this door is about 6'8" wide. Instructions say that I have to make the hole 4" wider on each side. That is going to be on honking size hole. I can use 2 x 6 to hold it in place, before I cut the struts, but, I was just thinking that I wanted to try and make the header end as strong as possible. Like I said, it was only an idea.

Yes the door is very heavy. Should have seen this little bod getting it out of the back of my poor old truck whose tail gate does not want to come down anymore. Can we say .... that was fun ??????

**spyder123** · May 20th, 2008

do not cut the hole 4 inches wider on each side. it should only be about 1/2 inch on either side to allow for plumbing and squaring it up. trust me, i am a cabinetmaker by trade and have been framing for years. only frame in the hole 1 inch wider than the door width max.

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by hunter50

hey lady- the easiest way is to hire someone else to do it..l0l

but it can be done depends on is a replacment or new instalitation..
just be careful that there is no main support beams or pluming or electric there and frame it out..you may need multiple skills
and be sure it is square..--just some tips..
let me know how you make out..i have done a few in the days..
good luck

Thanks Hunter, only in my dreams.... don't have the money.

New installation. No main support beams, I believe, probably going to take the inside wall down this week, electrical, yes, I am going to have to deal with that. There is a plug in switch right where the door is going, so will move it, that's ok, have done it before, usually light up my eyes, but getting better at it and now I know where the main breaker is.... dah ... no plumbing.

Re: square. Is that square to the door or square to the wall. My guess, either are dead *** square. Are they ever? I am figuring on making the wall hole square and then after I have wiggled the door in, if the squares aren't perfect, shim it and cork the heck out of it, then cover that up with molding.

Does that make any sense?

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder123

do not cut the hole 4 inches wider on each side. it should only be about 1/2 inch on either side to allow for plumbing and squaring it up. trust me, i am a cabinetmaker by trade and have been framing for years. only frame in the hole 1 inch wider than the door width max.

Awesome, spyder..... do you mind if I pm the instruction sheet that I have been reading. The 4" extra made sense when I read it, but, I would rather keep the hole as small as possible. You still need to insert an extra 2 x 4 of either side of the door to hold the header though. Don't you. But 2 (I guess it is really what 1 3/4 on a 2x4) is still better than 4".

**spyder123** · May 20th, 2008

sounds like you have a good grasp on it ladyv. and when your done there, u can come work for me finishing new homes. i could use a good woman like u

**spyder123** · May 20th, 2008

yes you need those to support your header. all i am stating is that the final inside measurements should not exceed 1 inch total. the tighter the better if your walls are square too start with. i like to frame it in with only a quarter inch per side, half inch on top.

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by spyder123

sounds like you have a good grasp on it ladyv. and when your done there, u can come work for me finishing new homes. i could use a good woman like u

Oh lordy, Spyder, I didn't mean it to sound like that. In my mind we were just discussing. Believe me I need all the help I can get. I really, really want this door in, so am trying to stay positive, (I can do it, I can do it .. you know that feeling) but to be honest I am pretty scared about it. If I mess this one up, I can't affort to have someone else fix it.

Can I PM the instructions to you ... another pair of eyes would definately help?

**spyder123** · May 20th, 2008

send away... one time fee for free. don't make me have to come there and do it tho. thats will cost ya ... i also have friends in your nieghbuurhood

**tnp12** · May 20th, 2008

once you get that door in sounds like a good solid spot to mount a fta dish or two. haha, I was gonna give you a little advice but spyder has the situation well in hand, good luck!!

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by tnp12

once you get that door in sounds like a good solid spot to mount a fta dish or two. haha, I was gonna give you a little advice but spyder has the situation well in hand, good luck!!

Funny that you should mention that !! Right outside the proposed sliding door, I am going to put a narrow deck, 4' (hate scrape) x 10 or 12 feet, (length of living room), to the sat pole, then throw up a roof. Winter time, snow on LNB, slide open door, scoot down the deck, don't get wet, take snow of lnb, run back inside, pick up remote and have a hot toddie !!! I still like the idea of a hair dryer inside a bird house aimed at LNB. Snow, plug in hair dryer and watch it melt away. Can't remember who suggested that but I think that is brilliant.

**hazwis** · May 20th, 2008

i think when the say cut an opening with 4 inches on each side its because what you have to wind up with is 2-2x4 cut to the hight of the 2x6 laminated header you have to put on top of the door to support the 2x4s you cut out for the opening.

i wish i could draw you a picture on here, its rather simple actually.
make sure the bottom opening is level as if not it will sag and be hard to close. you can shim it up on the bottom with broken pieces of shingles. the header above the door supports the short cut 2x4s you cut out making the opening and NOT supporting the door actually. if you make it plum and level it should be fine.

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Thanks Hazwis ... somehow, although it is a big job, I have it in my head that it is going to be hard, and I am sure that my old sailing tongue might have its moments, but I have built a fair number of things, so hopefully I will be able to tackle this. Haven't taken the inside wall down yet, but, in my favour is wood panelling, right to the ceiling, with only 1/4 round at the top. I am going to take the 1/4 round off, remove all the wood panelling, so that I have the enitre wall exposed. Beats the crap out of drywall. The wood panelling should be pretty easy to put back besides, isn't that why we have wood filler (LOL). I think that there are only 3 struts that have to be cut so that's not too bad. Between you, Spyder, me and everyone else, I could be looking out the glass door at spring blooming. It will be right across from the computer so I will get an amazing amount of time enjoying it.

The only thing that will slow me down is:

Can I put the door in from the inside .... or do I have to put it in from the outside.

If outside, I am going to have to build the deck first. Can't lift the darn thing up approximately 2 feet. If I can bring it in the house, shove it into place from the living room, secure it long enough to run around and get on a small step ladder to secure it. Then the inside wall is coming down soon. Yahoo !!!!

beekermc · May 20th, 2008

When you need help with that electrical lemme know. That's my dept.

**hazwis** · May 20th, 2008

just remember when you cut the studs the header you have to make will hold them back up when your done.

some doors have casings on the outside so you may have to install it from the outside in. depends on what you get i imagine.

ill see if i can draw you a pic of what the opening should look like.
good luck lady.

**just4ufolks** · May 20th, 2008

Wish I cud help but guess that's not my strong forte n again u hav wonderful know in the first place n supplemented with great help as well..so all I can do is wish you well with the PROJECT..for me it's a learning curve @ no extra charge...lol..enjoy a gud day..let it be a gr8 day..

**LadyVanita** · May 20th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by beekermc

When you need help with that electrical lemme know. That's my dept.

Hat's off to you ... never been good at electrical. My last home was a 5th wheel, disconnected the main plug, killed the electrical panel, shut down that conversion box - ( whatever it is called)and still light my poor little eyes up ... forgot about the 12v electrical system. I am hopeless, but, the more I shock myself, the better I am getting !!!!! (LOL)

beekermc · May 20th, 2008

Well I'm more of a construction electrician but I still get shocks from time to time. We call them "pokes" and they are certainly a learning experience. But still I dont know one person who hasnt tried to cut thru a live wire and have the blown out pliers to prove it.